The Complete Guide to Selling Wholesale Jewelry Internationally
HS codes, import duties, hallmarking rules, Kimberley Process, payment methods, and shipping — everything a manufacturer or wholesaler needs to sell across borders without getting a shipment seized.
Jewelry is one of the most heavily scrutinized categories in international trade — and for good reason. A small parcel can carry an enormous declared value, materials and gemstones vary wildly in how they're regulated, and customs authorities in every major market run specific algorithms designed to flag exactly this kind of high-value-density shipment. None of that means selling wholesale jewelry internationally is impractical. It means it rewards preparation.
This guide walks through the full process — from correctly classifying your products, to navigating duties and hallmarking rules market by market, to choosing the right payment method and shipping carrier — so your shipments clear customs the first time, every time.
Step 1: Classify Your Products Correctly
Every jewelry shipment needs a Harmonized System (HS) code, an internationally standardized classification that determines duty rates, trade statistics, and compliance requirements. Getting this wrong is the single most common cause of delayed or seized jewelry shipments.
- HS 7113: precious metal jewelry (gold, silver, platinum, palladium) and parts thereof, whether or not set with stones — this covers most fine jewelry
- HS 7117: imitation jewelry — base metal or plated pieces not incorporating precious metal, natural pearls, or precious/semi-precious stones
- HS 7108: gold in semi-manufactured forms (wire, sheet) — relevant if you're shipping raw materials rather than finished pieces
- HS 7102/7103: loose diamonds and other precious/semi-precious stones, not yet set
Using HS 7117 for a piece that should be classified under HS 7113 to access a lower duty rate is customs fraud, not a shortcut — and using the wrong code in the other direction means overpaying duties you don't owe. If you're unsure how a specific piece should be classified (mixed-metal pieces and gold-plated designs are common gray areas), request a binding ruling from the destination country's customs authority or work with a customs broker before you ship at volume.
Step 2: Understand Import Duties by Market
Duty rates on jewelry vary significantly by destination and material. Rates below are illustrative starting points — always verify current rates for your specific HS code and destination before quoting a landed cost to a buyer.
Market | Typical Duty (HS 7113, precious metal jewelry) | Additional Notes |
United States | ~5.5%–8% | De Minimis threshold ($800) helps small e-commerce parcels; formal entry required above ~$2,500 |
European Union | ~2.5%–4% | Plus VAT (often 20%+); IOSS registration needed for EU-bound e-commerce sales |
China | ~8%–20% | Plus 13% VAT; more favorable terms available under CEPA/RCEP for eligible partners |
Imitation jewelry (HS 7117) | Often higher than 7113 in the same market | E.g., roughly 11% in the US vs. 5.5–8% for precious metal jewelry |
Dutiable value typically includes the merchandise cost, international freight, and insurance — not just the item price. Excluding these from your declared value is a common, easily-detected error that triggers reassessment and penalties.
Step 3: Get Hallmarking and Purity Marking Right
Hallmarking requirements vary dramatically by destination, and getting this wrong undermines buyer trust even where it isn't strictly illegal.
- Legally required: the UK, India, and most EU member states mandate hallmarking on gold jewelry above a minimum weight (often 1 gram)
- Voluntary: the US treats hallmarking as optional — the National Gold and Silver Marking Act of 1906 requires accuracy in any mark applied, but doesn't require marking itself
- Widely inconsistent: China and Italy have significant gold jewelry production that often ships without formal government hallmarks, relying on manufacturer reputation instead
- The Vienna Convention (International Convention on the Control of the Fineness and Hallmarking of Precious Metal Articles) lets 19 member countries mutually recognize each other's hallmarks without retesting — useful if you're shipping between member states
Purity Conversion Reference
Karat | Fineness (‰) | Karat | Fineness (‰) |
9K | 375 | 18K | 750 |
14K | 585 | 22K | 916 |
Sterling silver is marked 925 (92.5% pure); platinum is typically marked 950. Label each product listing and shipment invoice with the correct karat/fineness for the destination market's expected convention, and include both systems (e.g., "14K / 585") when shipping to buyers who may be unfamiliar with one or the other.
Step 4: Handle Diamonds and Gemstones Correctly
The Kimberley Process — What It Actually Covers
This is one of the most commonly misunderstood compliance requirements in the jewelry trade. The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme applies only to rough (unpolished, unset) natural diamonds — it does not apply to:
- Cut and polished diamonds
- Diamonds already set or mounted in finished jewelry
- Lab-grown diamonds, in any form
- Other gemstones, rough or cut
If you're shipping finished jewelry — even jewelry containing natural diamonds — a Kimberley Process certificate is not required, since the diamonds are no longer classified as "rough." It only comes into play if you're specifically importing or exporting loose, unset rough diamonds, which requires working with a licensed common carrier (in the US: Brink's, Malca-Amit, Ferrari, or Loomis) and typically costs several hundred dollars in armored transport plus certificate fees.
If you sell lab-grown diamonds, it's still worth including a brief supplier statement confirming the stones are lab-grown and therefore outside Kimberley Process scope — some customs brokers and banks ask for this as a standard compliance check, even though it isn't technically required.
Certification for Loose Stones
- Request GIA, IGI, or AGS certification for any diamond or gemstone parcel of meaningful value before shipping
- Ensure the commercial invoice specifically describes stone type, shape, carat range, color, clarity, and certification — generic descriptions like "loose diamonds" invite customs scrutiny and delay
- Screen your catalog for CITES-restricted materials (certain coral, ivory, and tortoiseshell) and obtain permits before shipping, regardless of destination
Step 5: Choose the Right Payment Method
Method | How It Works | Best For |
Letter of Credit (LC) | Buyer's bank guarantees payment once the seller presents documents proving shipment terms were met | New relationships, larger orders, buyers in markets with less stable banking systems |
Escrow | A neutral third party holds funds until both sides confirm the agreed conditions are met | New buyer relationships without an LC; faster and cheaper to set up than an LC in most cases |
Documentary Collection | Banks handle shipping documents and release them once payment or acceptance occurs | Moderate-trust relationships; cheaper than an LC, more secure than open account |
Advance / Wire Transfer (TT) | Buyer pays some or all of the order value upfront via bank wire before shipment | Small orders, or established relationships with high trust |
Open Account | Goods ship first; buyer pays 30/60/90 days later | Long-standing, high-trust relationships only — carries the highest seller risk |
A meaningful share of international trade disputes originate from open account terms specifically — extending them to a new or unproven buyer relationship is one of the more common ways sellers get burned. For wire transfers, always verify the recipient's bank account details through a second channel (a phone or video call) before your first payment on any new relationship — email-only verification is a common fraud vector.
Step 6: Ship and Insure Correctly
Carrier Type | Good For | Consider If |
Specialist couriers (Brink's, Malca-Amit, Ferrari) | High-value parcels, loose stones, bulk precious metal | You ship regularly at significant value; need bonded, armored transport |
Express couriers (DHL, FedEx, UPS) | Most B2B jewelry volumes; faster setup than specialist couriers | You need reliable DDP capability and strong tracking without specialist courier overhead |
Standard postal services | Generally not recommended for commercial jewelry | Minimal tracking, weak insurance, and no DDP capability make this a poor fit for anything but token-value samples |
- Always declare the true commercial value on every shipment — customs authorities in every major market run algorithms specifically designed to flag undervalued, high-density parcels like jewelry
- Never mark a commercial shipment as a "gift" to reduce duties — this is a common, easily-detected violation with real penalties
- Choose DDP (Delivered Duty Paid) when you want to guarantee your buyer a predictable landed cost; choose DDU/DAP when you'd rather the buyer handle customs clearance and duties directly
- Build a returns strategy before your first sale — reclaiming duties already paid on a returned DDP shipment usually requires a formal duty drawback claim in the destination market
Step 7: Documentation Checklist
Have the following ready before every international wholesale shipment:
- Commercial invoice stating true value, correct HS code, complete material breakdown (metal purity, stone type), and country of origin
- Packing list matching the invoice exactly
- Certificates for any loose diamonds or gemstones (GIA/IGI/AGS) of meaningful value
- Kimberley Process certificate — only if shipping loose, rough natural diamonds specifically
- CITES permits — only if the shipment includes restricted natural materials (certain coral, ivory, tortoiseshell)
- Certificate of origin, if required for preferential tariff treatment under a trade agreement
- Import license or customs bond, if required by the destination market for shipments above a formal-entry threshold
Common Mistakes That Get Shipments Seized or Delayed
- Undervaluing the shipment to reduce duties — this is fraud, not a savings strategy, and carries real financial and legal consequences
- Misclassifying HS codes, in either direction — one overpays, the other risks penalties and seizure
- Vague product descriptions on the commercial invoice ("jewelry," "loose stones") instead of specific, itemized detail
- Using standard postal services for high-value commercial shipments instead of a carrier built for jewelry
- Assuming Kimberley Process applies to finished jewelry or lab-grown diamonds, when it doesn't
- Skipping a returns strategy, then absorbing duty costs on every return once they start coming in
A Pre-Launch Checklist
- Correctly classify every SKU under the right HS code before your first international shipment
- Confirm hallmarking requirements for each destination market and mark products accordingly
- Set up certification (GIA/IGI/AGS) for any diamond or gemstone product lines
- Choose a payment method appropriate to the trust level of each buyer relationship
- Select a shipping carrier matched to your typical shipment value — specialist courier, express courier, or a mix
- Build your documentation templates once, so every shipment reuses a consistent, complete format
- Decide your Incoterms (DDP vs. DDU) and returns policy before your first sale, not after your first return request
Sourcing directly from verified manufacturers is the first step in all of this — the fewer intermediaries between you and the factory, the easier it is to get accurate material, purity, and certification details for your export documentation from the start. A B2B jewelry marketplace like Jewelslly connects buyers directly with manufacturers across categories, so the compliance details above start with accurate information rather than secondhand assumptions.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What HS code should I use for gold jewelry?
A: Most finished precious metal jewelry (gold, silver, platinum) falls under HS 7113. Imitation or base-metal jewelry uses HS 7117. Semi-manufactured gold forms like wire or sheet use HS 7108. The correct subheading depends on karat, construction, and whether gemstones are included — request a binding ruling from destination customs if you're unsure.
Q: Does the Kimberley Process apply to finished jewelry?
A: No. The Kimberley Process only covers rough, unset natural diamonds. Once a diamond is cut, polished, or mounted in jewelry, it's no longer classified as "rough" and does not require a Kimberley Process certificate.
Q: Do lab-grown diamonds need Kimberley Process certification?
A: No — lab-grown diamonds involve no mining and fall entirely outside Kimberley Process scope. That said, it's good practice to include a supplier statement confirming the stones are lab-grown, since some customs brokers and banks ask for this as a standard compliance check.
Q: Is hallmarking legally required to sell jewelry internationally?
A: It depends on the destination. The UK, India, and most EU countries legally require hallmarking on gold jewelry above a minimum weight. The US treats it as voluntary. Even where not legally mandatory, buyers increasingly expect clear purity marking as a baseline trust signal.
Q: What's the safest payment method for a new international jewelry buyer?
A: A Letter of Credit or escrow arrangement are generally the safest options for new buyer relationships, since both involve a neutral third party (a bank or escrow service) holding or guaranteeing funds until agreed conditions are met. Open account terms should be reserved for long-standing, high-trust relationships.
Q: Can I ship jewelry through regular postal services?
A: It's not recommended for commercial shipments. Standard postal services offer minimal tracking, weak insurance coverage, and no DDP (Delivered Duty Paid) capability — a poor fit for anything beyond low-value samples. Express couriers (DHL, FedEx, UPS) or specialist carriers (Brink's, Malca-Amit) are built for jewelry's specific risk profile.
Q: What's the difference between DDP and DDU shipping terms?
A: Under DDP (Delivered Duty Paid), the seller handles and pays import duties, giving the buyer a predictable landed cost. Under DDU/DAP (Delivered at Place), the buyer handles customs clearance and duty payment themselves upon arrival. DDP is more buyer-friendly but requires the seller to accurately calculate duties upfront.
Q: How do I calculate the true dutiable value of a jewelry shipment?
A: Dutiable value typically includes the merchandise cost, international freight, and insurance — not just the item's sale price. Excluding freight or insurance from your declared value is a common error that triggers customs reassessment and potential penalties.
Q: What documentation does a jewelry commercial invoice need?
A: At minimum: true declared value, correct HS code, a complete material breakdown (metal purity, stone type and certification), country of origin, and a specific — not generic — description of each item. Vague descriptions like "jewelry" or "loose stones" are a leading cause of customs delays.
Q: Do I need a customs bond to import jewelry?
A: In the US, a formal entry (typically required above roughly $2,500 in value) generally requires a customs bond. Requirements vary by destination market, so confirm the specific formal-entry threshold and bonding requirement for each country you ship to.
Q: What's the difference between 7113 and 7117 HS codes?
A: HS 7113 covers precious metal jewelry — gold, silver, platinum, or metal clad with precious metal, whether or not set with stones. HS 7117 covers imitation jewelry made from base metal, without precious metal, natural pearls, or precious/semi-precious stones. Using the wrong code to access a lower duty rate is considered customs fraud.
Q: Can I mark a commercial jewelry shipment as a gift to avoid duties?
A: No — this is a common but clearly prohibited practice. Customs authorities specifically watch for mismatches between shipment content and declared purpose, and misdeclaring a commercial shipment as a gift carries real penalties, including potential seizure.
Q: How do I handle international returns on jewelry I shipped DDP?
A: Reclaiming duties already paid on a DDP shipment usually requires filing a formal duty drawback claim in the destination market. Build your returns policy and this process into your operations before you launch, since duty costs on returns can add up quickly without a plan.
Q: Are CITES permits relevant to jewelry exports?
A: Yes, if your catalog includes certain natural materials like specific coral species, ivory, or tortoiseshell. Screen your product line for CITES-restricted materials and obtain the necessary permits before shipping, regardless of which market you're selling into.
Q: What's the most efficient way to source jewelry I plan to resell internationally?
A: Sourcing directly from verified manufacturers — rather than through resellers or unverified intermediaries — makes it far easier to get accurate purity, material, and certification details needed for compliant export documentation. A B2B marketplace like Jewelslly is built specifically to connect buyers with verified suppliers directly.
